Saturday - Juneau

Felt like a new guy this morning after a good night of rest and abstinence.  We are still underway and will not arrive in Juneau until 10 am.  Nace and I perched ourselves in the Observation Lounge and were treated to panoramic views of lush forested peaks, low fog, high fog and bright blue skies.  Quite spectacular.  

Today the guys and girls go our separate ways.  Nace and Glenda are going on a guided garden and glacier tour.  Rod and I will take a helicopter to the Mendenhall glacier and learn how to hike on ice.  

Having no firsthand experience with their experience I can only say that Rod and I totally excursion shamed Nace and Glenda when we reunited and reviewed our day over drinks before dinner.  It was really quite hysterical and both Glenda and Nace laughed so hard they cried trying to make us wish we had gone on their rather lame excursion.  Truly they had a very nice experience but I am out of superlatives to describe the day that Rod and I had.

Our pre-trip instructions made it clear that there was no room of even a fanny pack on the helicopter so I left my trusty Fuji XT-1 in the cabin and reverted to my small but mighty Lumix point and shoot.  I am sort of apologizing in advance for the following photos but as you can see the scenery makes up for shortcomings in equipment.  

We took a short van ride to the Juneau airport and began getting dressed for a walk on the ice.  The tour provided windproof jacket and pants, gloves and boots, leg gaiters and a small fanny pack ready to go with water and a power bar.  We gathered outside in our foul weather gear under the brilliant sunshine of a 70 degree Juneau day for our flight safety briefing.  Being overdressed for this unusual weather we were soaked with perspiration which would become problematic once we got up to the glacier.  

We proceeded out to our helo fully educated in where to stand and what to avoid; the spinning tail rotor was especially worrisome and we were reminded of some fool who forgot to secure their gloves and fouled up the trip for their group.  There was a loading order to keep the weight even and I wound up in the back just behind our pilot.  Pretty much a birds eye view over her shoulder.  

There was another safety review and some waiting to clear the local air of helos buzzing around like dragonflies and we were off.  Very awesome way to see the coastal rainforest and then head upward into the ice fields.  We spent at least thirty minutes picking our way up and through granite verticals and looking down at rivers of ice that is exactly the same color as the foam insulation boards sold at Home Depot.  

We alighted on glacier landing zone and walked toward a gathering of guides and hikers.  Another bit of technical chit chat and they strapped on our boot crampons to enable us to walk and climb on the solid ice that surrounded us for thousands of miles.  

We set out as a little group and did out best to use the walking skills we learned a few seconds before with lots of gentle reminders about not reverting to your instincts which would be painful.  It was also important to hold the ice axe just right to avoid sticking in in someones face walking behind you.  

We alighted on glacier landing zone and walked toward a gathering of guides and hikers.  Another bit of technical chit chat and they strapped on our boot crampons to enable us to walk and climb on the solid ice that surrounded us for thousands of miles.  

We set out as a little group and did out best to use the walking skills we learned a few seconds before with lots of gentle reminders about not reverting to your instincts which would be painful.  It was also important to hold the ice axe just right to avoid sticking in in someones face walking behind you.  

For the most part it appeared our guide had a plan and we followed along in switch backs where the footing was barely as wide as your boot.  This required even more technical walking skills to avoid slashing your own calves with the crampons.  The crevasses were also had running water and it was not until we had spent considerable time avoiding stepping in the water that he reported our boots were completely waterproof and made for immersion.  Useful information for sure.  

In another upward section one of our hiking group inquired about drinking the water.  It is so pure and so old (hundreds of years suspended in its solid form and now released to flow by the warming and changing of the glacier.  Drink away.  We all spilled out our Kirkland water and dipped into the glacial drinking fountain and found the water better than anything we had ever experienced before.  Perhaps elevation and exhaustion clouded our judgement somewhat but it was really quite tasty.  

We learned about glacial movement and the effects of converging rivers of ice which create much of the surface appearance.  Looking up we spotted a literal porthole in the side of one of the crevasse walls.  You could see the sky through it.  A bit later we had worked our way above it which revealed the source of the hole-a stream of water.  The hole was about 5 feet in diameter and we were able to stand next to it and look down on the ice below.  

We continued working our way back and forth up the elevation until we came to a literal vertical wall on three sides.  This was the end of our upward progress and we did an about face and began our descent.   Finally back to the landing zone our crampons were removed.  Not one person fell down during our hike although I did a split on the top of a crevasse when I could not decide which side to plant my next foot and wound up with a leg on either side.  I remained upright and looked like a cowboy riding bareback.  

Another pilot flew us directly back to the airport for the equally exhausting task of removing the clothing provided by the tour.  Back in the van to the dock.  

Rod and I beat the ladies back to the ship and had a refreshment and then I headed back into Juneau for a 10 block walk to attend Mass in the smallest cathedral in the US.  Quite a range from the National Cathedral in Washington D.C., this tiny church on the side of a mountain could seat no more than 150 people.  Pretty special-glad I went.  

I caught up with Nace, Rod and Glenda as they were heading out for cocktails before dinner and quickly cleaned up for the end of happy hour and dinner in the main restaurant, Compass Rose.  

I do recall that we went to the one hour evening show but recall nothing as I was fighting to stay awake after a pretty active day.